August 9, 2013

We interrupt your irregularly scheduled programming for a brief detour. The site may have been quiet, but I haven’t been—you’ll just have to read my three most recent articles somewhere else.

First, you surely know Lars Carlberg’s name as one of the founders of the late, great Mosel Wine Merchant, which brought such producers as Peter Lauer, Immich-Batterieberg, and Steinmetz to the US and changed the way many people, myself included, drink riesling. The first time I tasted one—Peter Lauer’s Senior—my immediate reaction was, “Where have you been all my life? And why doesn’t everyone make riesling like this?” Lars now writes a Mosel wine guide at focused on in-depth producer profiles and recent tasting reports, and he asked me to contribute a guest article. Opening lede:

André Simon wrote in Vintagewise—his 1945 “Postscript to Saintsbury’s Notes on a Cellar Book“—that the wines of the Mosel saw “a very marked and most regrettable difference not only in the individual quality but in the general style of the wines made after 1915 and those made before 1914.” That is an intriguingly specific place to draw a line. Style is more often a fluid thing, evolving slowly based on changing tastes and the whims of fashion. But a few very specific things happened in 1914.

There was, of course, the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and the outbreak of World War I, but (as Leslie Nielson might have said in the movie Airplane!), that’s not important right now. . . .

Read the rest at

Next, I am very proud to say that I’ve now had several articles and book reviews printed in my favorite wine magazine, the World of Fine Wine. The latest issue features my review of three new books on Bordeaux—Neal Martin’s Pomerol, Stephen Brook’s The Complete Bordeaux, and Jane Anson’s Bordeaux Legends. You can also find my report on Abe Scholium’s Metaphysical Lecture Series, and find out what his Scholium Project Gardens of Babylon petite sirah has in common with a foggy landscape painting hanging in Washington, D.C.’s National Gallery. So visit your local newsstand today—or read the issue on the brand-new World of Fine Wine iPad app.

7 Responses to “Detour”

  1. charlie carnes said

    Keith, I was on the outside looking in for so long. I used to think I would never get the cult wines like Screagle and Maya Now I am smack dab in the middle of, in my mind, the greatest (cult) wines in the world. ((And they’re available to little ol’ me!)) Today, the thought of a Screagle, Quilceda creek and the like, hardly get a rise out of me. But you mention Lars; he is at the epicenter, maybe even the other side of the black hole where some of the GREATEST wines in the world are available, and available for a song really. When I give my friends some of the Rieslings, almost all past MWM offerings, that I love and drink, I explain to them that in my mind, if these were Burgundy or Bordeaux they would cost around $250 to $1000 per bottle. They are rare, ancient, excellent, never over made, and made by, for the most part, by some pretty cool farmers. I think Stephen Bitterolf and his company Vom Boden, deserve an honorable mention here as well.

  2. g2-3f255f5e754b01c0fa31d9cff8a08c15 said

    Any chance you can link your piece about Abe? We are friends and I’d enjoy reading it.

    Thx – Glenn

  3. Thanks for your article and the shout-out.

  4. Vijay Parikh said

    OK, I did enter a subscription to World of Fine Wine. Note they seem not to realize that US addresses require your state in them and not county.

    What books do you recommend for reading up on Rieslings? Any wine shops you recommend in the US with a large focus on Rieslings? thanks

    • Hi Vijay — Unfortunately, I’m hard-pressed to think of any riesling books to recommend that are even semi-current. The Loeb & Prittie one is very good for a historical perspective in the out-of-print category. Freddy Price’s Riesling Renaissance is more recent but is kind of a 10,000-foot overview and more of a coffee-table book – still, I thumbed through it recently and it struck me as better than I originally gave it credit for, and surprisingly ahead of the curve with respect to certain producers. For retailers, Crush and Chambers Street Wines are among the best, and Lyle at is offering some really fascinating stuff. On the other coast, Dee Vine has been at this for awhile but I don’t have as much personal experience with them. Hope that helps!

      • Vijay Parikh said

        Thanks for your comments. I suppose the upside is I get to explore if not uncharted at least undocumented ( in book form) waters!

  5. Rocco said

    Thank you for all your work and dedication to the field of reading!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: